Hi, My baby yamaha has a major problem (I think). Extremely hard to turn motor over and will not start, until I disconect the stator connection at the plug. When disconnected motor starts and runs as normal. It was going ok but stopped abruptly when in normal use. There are no broken or parts that are binding . Has anyone got any ideas that might help? Any clues would be appreciated. Thankyou.
That is weird and it tells me there is a solid short between the stator output wires, and it can be so far "upstream" that it is inside the inverter itself. Ohmmeter testing of the 6 white stator wires is on order.
There are two separate stator windings, so check 2 wires between each group of 3.
1.5 Ohm Wh-Wh: 1.3 Ohm± 20% at 20 °C (68 °F) for 115V model.
4.8 Ohm Wh-Wh: 4.4 Ohm± 20% at 20 °C (68 °F) for 230V model.
The no load AC voltage test (unplugged) between both of the 3 twin wire pairs at full RPMs should read:
120V/60Hz60 ~ 100 V at 20 °C (68 °F)
220V/50Hz120 ~ 240 V at 20 °C (68 °F)
230V/50Hz120 ~ 240 V at 20 °C (68 °F)
220V/60Hz120 ~ 240 V at 20 °C (68 °F)
If all those check within spec, it's a bad inverter.
Hi there.. I have the same problem with my little one, stalls the motor once under load.. I have tested the stator coil and it showed readings of 5s and 10s which leads me to believe it's buggered. It also has what looks like little heat bubbles in the insulating coating of the stator. What are the chances of the inveterate being buggered too?and how can I test it?
PS just making sure I'm testing the stator correctly.. It's a 6 pin plug, what format do I test the plug?side by side?
It would be great if you could me and you time is very appreciative.
I'm in Aust and am having same problem with mine. Stator looks fine but third pair has only 58 volts at full rpm check
Just unsure I'm testing properly. It looks fine . No heat related problems just looking at it.
Can't get any resistance on ohm check.
Any chance you could explain testing a little more detailed .
Don't want to order a stator and find its inverter.
This is the second gen set to fail on me with hardly any hours.
Stator us about $500 here in Aust.
The one thing most likely causing these stator and/or inverter ECU damages is the most important part of every owners manual that few people attach any importance to . . . and that is the wire gauge/length chart for extension cords/cables.
If you use a 25, 50 or 75 foot extension cord of 14-AWG or worse yet 16-AWG (AmericanWireGauge) to connect to your refrigerator/freezer to put the exhaust fumes and/or noise far away -or- run the power cord to your neighbors "appliance" you WILL damage any of these: the Genny's Stator windings and/or Inverter ECU and/or the motor windings of the neighbors "appliance". The reason why is that undersized extension cords like 14, 16, 18 AWG (BIGGER numbers represent SMALLER wire diameters!!) cannot carry the required Wattage for sustained periods near the Genny's rated load. The smaller wire's higher Ohmage resistance creates a voltage drop at the load side that causes the current draw (Amps) to go higher, quickly creating excess heat at the power source and at the load. The closer to the Genny's rated load, the quicker and severity of the overheating damage occurs. ALWAYS use the heaviest and the SHORTEST length AWG extension you can! NEVER coil up a 50, 75 or 100 foot cord on the ground to connect to the load 20 feet away! That coil creates a sloppy electromagnetic coil that creates additional heat in just the coil. SPEND the MONEY on the shortest 12 AWG (25 or 50 foot) extension cord OR you WILL regret it later.
Looking On-Line at HomDep I see:
25 ft. 16/3 Indoor/Outdoor Extension Cord = $9.97 (16/3 = 16AWG 3 wires)
25 ft. 14/3 Indoor/Outdoor Extension Cord = $19.97
25 ft. 12/3 Indoor/Outdoor Extension Cord = $30.97 <---Buy This One!!
My (Yam) 1000W EF1000iSC uses a dedicated 12-AWG cord. The 2000W (W)56200i and 3100W (C)75531i use the same 10-AWG TT-30 plug-in jumper cord.