An online manual I stumbled across says compression should be 58lbs. I measured it as 120lbs. Has anyone else checked theirs?
After a few carb cleanings and still having problems with it running under load I decided to do a valve lash inspection to look for a loose valve. They were both on the tight side by a couple thousands so I adjusted. Push rods were straight. I checked compression again and no change. With the cover off I had a decent view of the piston top and it was not carboned up.
This thing was a used nonrunning classified purchase so there was multiple problems. It is a low hour unit that sat for a year.
To get to the valve adjustment point I had drained oil that was overfilled and not so great looking. I drained the tank, lines, and bowl of the old gas. I think at this point I got it to run but it was rough. I then did a rudimentary cleaning of the carb and all the jets, passages and mixture screws with compressed air and carb cleaner. It would run well but not under load. That got me to the valve checking part above and while I had the carb off I again stripped it but this time I got it a good soak in a can of Carb/Parts cleaner. Finally it runs well under load.
As an aside, how are these gens supposed to sound when they are on the conservation low idle setting with no load? Mine was not steady but had a very slight surging. I couldnt adjust the capped mixture screw enough to straighten it out.
One thing about the compression:
Does the 1000 have the compression release mechanism?
The 2000 model has a mechanism which leaves the exhaust valve slightly open. This permits easier pull-starts. Once the generator speeds up, centrifugal forces pull out the weights, and the exhaust valve closes.
This makes it very hard to get an accurate compression reading.
Maybe the 1000 model also has this setup? Any idea?
I don't know, yet a 2500rpm idle seems high to me...
Yet I don't have access to the books.
fighterthiefmage, After checking the parts diagrams, the EF1000iS does indeed have an automatic centrifugal compression release mechanism. That is why the compression spec is so low at 58psi. Your wandering RPMs on Eco-Idle still indicates a too lean part throttle circuit fuel mixture, so a fine steel wire gentle cleaning of the pilot jet orifice is needed. About the plastic limiter cap, be careful you do not put too much of a side load on it while you melt off the limiter tab with a soldering gun to enable its' removal for cleaning as the pilot adjusting screw has a severely necked-down portion on it so it breaks off (!!!). That will prevent/punish people that need to remove/clean/adjust the pilot screw SO IT RUNS LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TOO. That Calif EPA mandated limiter tab insures that it will be correctly adjusted for less than about 20 percent of its' lifetime. The rest of the time the RPMs will cycle -AND- most people will NOT be able to successfully remove the pilot screw for cleaning without breaking it off! Then it is very likely carb replacement time.
More important details: After the plastic limiter protrusion is melted off, count the half turns from the contact position with the cast Aluminum limiter lug as you gently tighten the pilot screw IN until it stops. Write it down, including the the last partial turn recorded as analog clock minutes (easier than using degrees rotation). Then remove the screw/(and maybe spring/washer/O-Ring) and spray clean the passageway. Re-install it to the noted initial "turns out" setting, then start the engine. After running a cold engine about 2 minutes, switch on Eco-Idle. If it runs good, turn in the screw until it starts to waver, then outward for the smoothest steady running. If it's cycling initially, slowly loosen the pilot screw until it stops RPM cycling. Shut it down, re-install the outer case covers and you're done.