YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

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YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

davexx1
I have a 2004 YG6600DE generator and have had several issues and am wondering if they are related and have a common fix.  Not sure which occurred first.

Lost power to the push button electric start switch and had to start the engine via the recoil starter.  The engine would start only if someone held the throttle rod to the idle position while I pulled the recoil starter.  It would not start otherwise.  Once started, let go of the throttle rod and the engine would speed up to normal and run fine.

Another issue was that I checked the oil one time and found the crankcase full of gasoline.  Changed oil several times until it ran clear.  Started turning gas valve off and running carb dry to shut it down.  Haven't had the gas in oil problem reoccur since, but am concerned about running it dry/lean at every shutdown.

Today I opened the control box and found two red wires with a 10 amp blade type fuse between them.  The fuse was blown.  I put a new fuse inline and got power back to the push button electric start switch.  It works fine now, but what caused the fuse to blow?

What would cause it to be hard to start and require throttle rod to be held to the idle position to start?

Would a bad fuel shut off solenoid allow gas to leak into the cylinder, by the rings, and into crankcase?

Is there an electrical problem that is causing all of these issues?

Thanks, Dave
 


 
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Re: YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

Grumps
Dave
The fuel solenoid is not meant to be a fuel shut off, it only activates at shut down to stop fuel from washing the oil off the cylinder walls when the ignition is turned off and prevent backfire . If you leave the petcock on the float needle is not strong enough to fight gravity if left on over a long time. If you are going to let the unit sit for a long time turning off the fuel till the engine quits is the correct thing to do, also open the float bowl drain screw. Now if you are planning to use the unit again soon just turn the petcock off and just let it run a little to lower the fuel level in the bowl and shut it off. If the blown fuse is a one time thing I would not worry about it too much.
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Re: YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

davexx1
I am guessing the blown fuse was a result of grinding on the starter for a long period trying to get it started and before I figured out that it would start immediately if I pulled the throttle rod to the idle position.

What would be wrong if it will not start unless I pull the "throttle or governor" rod (whatever it is called) to the idle position?  Is there an automatic choke or some other function that is not working?

Would the problem be electrical, vaccum related, or ??

Thanks, Dave
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Re: YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

Grumps
I have looked at the parts breakdown for your unit, it looks like it has an electric choke mounted to the carburetor . The lever you are moving may be the choke. You could disconnect the choke unit wires and apply 12 v to see if the choke actuator is working. I did not see that part listed by itself , only saw it shown as the whole carb Assy.
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Re: YG6600DE Issues, Hard to Start, No Power to Start Switch, etc.

CycleRob
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by davexx1
davexx1 said:  "Another issue was that I checked the oil one time and found the crankcase full of gasoline.  Changed oil several times until it ran clear.  Started turning gas valve off and running carb dry to shut it down.  Haven't had the gas in oil problem reoccur since, but am concerned about running it dry/lean at every shutdown."

 Gasoline in the crankcase is A VERY BAD thing! It will fatally scorch bearings, cam lobes, cylinder walls, pistons and create a hot explosive vapor when the engine gets hot, unless it seizes up first. A gunky float needle seat is the cause. Rarely, an older model corrosion perforated brass float filled with gasoline will also cause it, but it would be way too rich to run. You must disassemble the carb and clean the float valve cone and seat opening (down inside the needle hole). I use a J&J Q-Tip cut in half, 1 mounted in an electric drill chuck, the cotton tip dipped in a MILD abrasive like Semi-Chrome paste or if not available, toothpaste. Put the Q-Tip down the needle seat opening, fully rev up the drill for 10 seconds as you apply light downward pressure, then axial sideways pressure to wear away the gunky, even the oxidized brass deposits. Spray clean the paste away with a spray carb cleaner. Repeat with the other half of the Q-Tip for the final polish. It will NOT damage the needle seat, just clean it up like it was years ago.

 BTW, I always use a fuel stabilizer in the gasoline, unless I know it will be running for well over one tankful. In that case, the last refill should have stabilizer in it and run thru the system for 10 minutes to purge untreated fuel.

About  "running it dry/lean at every shutdown", that is no danger to the engine for the short time and no-load RPMs that it happens. After shutting off the gas valve at full RPMs, just wait the 3+ minutes it takes for the RPMs to start cycling. That's when you add a little choke very SLOWLY until the cycling stops, then a little more when it starts cycling again. Keep slowly adding very tiny increments of choke to smooth out the running. When the float bowl fuel is almost gone it will run wildly erratic and no longer respond . . . and that is when to IMMEDIATELY QUICKLY push the choke off and let it stall. The small quantity of fuel remaining in the carb can be drained away via the clear drain hose into a small container.
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