Messing with the carburetor I noticed the needle screw was in about 6-7 turns. I just received the service manual yesterday and it says it should be in 2 and 3/4 turns. So going to try backing it out and see if that stops the surging.
So adjusting the needle didn't change anything. But when reassembling the carburetor I forgot to plug in the throttle control solenoid. When I did that the surging stopped. Once I plugged in the throttle control, it started surging again. Is that the issue?
The reason it is surging without the choke on is most likely the pilot jet is plugged.
I just had to clean these out on both my 2000is’s today.
Spraying them with carb cleaner won’t really get them clean. I had to push a very tiny piece of wire through the bottom of the jet to get it to clear. It was sealed shut with varnish. It takes some pushing and twisting to get it through. You also need to be careful you don’t enlarge the hole. I pulled out a single piece of a wire brush and held the wire with needle nose vice grips and worked the jet back and forth on the end of the wire till it goes through the gunk.
You are correct that RPM cycling is caused by the very tiny pilot jet metering hole that is still partially or fully plugged up. What you must be careful of is how you clean the fuel metering orifice that is "about" .018" diameter by using any wire. I have read where someone used a strand of (very weak) Copper wire!! That risks breaking off inside the orifice if it will not go in easily.
When my de-fueled 2009 EF1000iSC would not run without cycling I took it apart and tried cleaning its smaller sized gummed up pilot jet with a steel wire that was gradually tapered off axially to about 80% of the full diameter over a length of 1". In cleaning the orifice it got stuck in the hole and then BROKE OFF flush when trying to GENTLY turn it while trying to free it up. Attempts at heating the brass jet then tapping it on a hard surface all failed to knock it lose. It was then $22 for a new one, then it immediately ran like new. Next time I think I'll use a propane torch first.
In some shops a water bath Ultrasonic cleaner is used to shake up carb jets in a cup of carb cleaner to more safely clean plugged jets and gummy parts.
What do you suggest to keep these jets from gumming up?
On my old EF1000, I stored it with Sta-Bil in the tank and within a couple months the pilot jet still got plugged up. I think there’s so much crap in today’s gasoline that those tiny little oriffices don’t stand a chance.
I used to have the same problem on a small cc Honda motorcycle. Running the carb dry didn’t help either.
This is what I do, every 6-12 months I put just enough Trufuel in the tank to run for 30 minutes and let it run out of gas. Then I drain the float bowl and put it away. Never store the generator with fuel in the tank. The only time I would put pump gas in it is if I actually needed the unit for a power outage. It always starts first pull. I do this for all small engines in the off season.
Icecat, The cycling of my EF1000iSC happened after siphoning the fuel+Stabil tank while running it dry till it stalled, opening the float bowl drain screw till empty, then pulling the recoil starter 10 times with the choke pulled out + ignition ON to vacuum out both the pilot jet, main jet and their passageways. Then, after many months of climate controlled storage and a new fuel +Stabil fill-up it STILL would not run without a brand new, first ever case of RPM cycling!!
Conclusion: That pilot jet's tiny metering orifice is really sensitive, possibly to minute quantities of fuel damped surfaces emitting fuel vapors in an enclosed area. To prevent this from happening again I devised a new plan. Just last month to long term store my EF2000iSC I drained the fuel tank and 2 fuel lines. Next, removed the float bowl to spay clean the ports thru the air bleed jets seen from the carb throat choke end's opening to clean them then many air gun blasts to completely dry everything out. When I tried to reinstall the the float bowl and its very narrow gasket against gravity it refused to stay in place. Not wanting to possibly tighten down on an out-of-place gasket it required a tedious complete removal of the carb to invert it and then easily drop the gasket and float bowl into place before installing/tightening the float bowl's bottom mount bolt. So be prepared, and have a great deal of patience when working on your Genny.
That pilot jet weakness may be why nearly all the Generator retailers recommend you start your Genny at least once-a-month and run it for 15--30 minutes(!!).
Ordered a number drill set from Amazon #61-#80. The #80 is what worked to clean out the pilot jet hole.
Need tweezers to pick up the drill bit it's so small. Put bit in pin vise to hold it. Flushed with carb cleaner and air. Running great now. Hardest part is removing the cover over the tank spout to get to carb. Hope this is helpful to someone.