EF3000iseb runs but quits after 10 seconds

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EF3000iseb runs but quits after 10 seconds

Rotac
Our 12 year old Yamaha Generator (EF3000iseb) has run great for years but last August it started the chugging in the heat with black smoke coming out of the exhaust.  Like other posts if we let it cool down it would start up and run great again.  This happened 4 or 5 times over the week and if cool it ran well and did so up until we left the cottage.  So I ordered the speed limiter board for it and another person used the generator the following week and had it do the same thing.  Then it would not continue to run so he stopped using it.

I brought back the new speed limiter board to the cottage in November and before installing it I tried starting the generator.  It would start and run for approximately 10 seconds and then stop running. While running it did generate electricity.  

I checked the gas and it was fine, the carb bowl was full so it was not starving for fuel. The oil level was fine.  I removed and cleaned the carb and it didn't need cleaning but reinstalled it.  Same problem.  I noticed after it stopped running each time that there was a red light on at the rear in the gold colored bar at the rear bottom on the opposite side of the main plug/key side. I could turn the key off and start it over and over and it would start and run for 5 to 10 seconds and shut off almost like someone had turned the key off.

I disconnected the low oil sensor to ensure it was not that.  Same results.
I disconnected the electrical item on top of the carb and that didn't make a difference.

I installed the new speed limiter board but that made no change in how it started and ran for 10 seconds.  I changed the spark plug and spark plug boot to see if that was the issue but still got the same result.

I took it into the Yamaha dealer in Guelph Ontario and their suggestion after trouble shooting it suggested  that I ground out the oil sensor wire and that should fix the problem. (They said that they couldn't do it due to policy)  I had told them all of the above and that I had tried disconnecting the oil sensor and had no change.  

When I grounded out the oil sensor wire (s).  The generator would not start at all so they basically took my $150.00 and did nothing to remedy the situation.  

So it would appear that something is shutting the generator down after a few seconds of use but I can't figure it out as it runs the way it should for the 10 seconds and produces power but then shuts off like someone turned the key off.  I work on small gas engines fixing and repairing them for neighbours but this one has me stumped.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I can't take it back to Yamaha as I don't want to throw another $150 away.
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Re: EF3000iseb runs but quits after 10 seconds

CycleRob
This post was updated on .
Rotac,
 They did not fix it so why were you charged $150? They ABSOLUTELY could unhook the oil sensor wire to confirm that the sensor is bad -after- it runs for 20 minutes, then tell you it IS bad. Ask them if Yamaha would OK what they did not do, then charge you $150.
 Using the policy of making the ea$y shots first, the next possible thing is that after 12 years one of the ignition components has partially failed from high engine heat and/or vibration damage. You'll have to remove the cooling shroud and leave it off for all of this; Check for the primary kill wire for grounding out. Unplug the ignition coil's primary kill wire from the wire harness and start the engine. If it continues to run it is NOT the ignition coil that is at fault but maybe something very expensive. If it still runs for only 10 secs, it could be just the secondary spark plug wire grounding out against an engine part after the engine starts because of rubber rub-through damage. Give that secondary wire's entire length a visual check for wear through or dry rot cracks then examine it with the engine running in total darkness for a telltale flashing light as it is stalling. If the secondary wire shows no wear damage, put a hair dryer hot blast on the coil for 5 minutes then try to start the engine for your answer. Also use another good grounded to metal sparkplug to immediately test for spark after the engine stalls. Finally, check the coil air gap and the 2 mount bolts for tightness.

I certainly hope it is NOT this:
Power Unit: UR EF3000iSEB  7WL-8A2P0-10-00 99999-04252-00  $827.61 (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

I hope its just a bad $113 ignition coil. If it's a leaking worn secondary wire, stretching it straight and wrapping it in electrical tape and then put inside a plastic hose (remove the sparkplug cap) to renew the insulation Until/IF the the coil is replaced.

Talent, On Loan, From God  --Rush Limbaugh--
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Re: EF3000iseb runs but quits after 10 seconds

Rotac
Thanks for your reply.   Yes they charged me and I unfortunately don't think they did anything at all as telling me that I could ground out the low oil sensor wire should do it was definitely wrong. They should have know that that would just stop the engine from starting at all.  It's too bad as I own several Yamaha generators and ATV's.  So I like the quality of the Yamaha products.

I will give all your suggestions a try and hopefully it is one of the issues you mentioned.  It is an amazing generator and I'd buy one again but I'd rather keep this old girl running as it runs for 16 to 17 hours on a tank at our camp and is very quiet.
I'll keep you posted on how I make out.  I appreciate your reply and suggestions.

On Monday, October 21, 2019, 10:20:25 p.m. EDT, CycleRob [via Yamaha Generator Fan Club] <[hidden email]> wrote:


Rotac,
 They did not fix it so why were you charged $150?
 Using the policy of making the ea$y shots first, the next possible thing is that after 12 years one of the ignition components has partially failed from high engine heat and/or vibration damage. You'll have to remove the cooling shroud for this; Check for the primary kill wire for grounding out. Unplug the primary kill wire from the wire harness and start the engine. If it continues to run it is NOT the ignition coil that is at fault but maybe something very expensive. If it still runs for only 10 secs, it could be just the secondary spark plug wire grounding out against an engine part after the engine starts because of rubber rub-through damage. Give that secondary wire's entire length a visual check for wear through or dry rot cracks then examine it with the engine running in total darkness for a telltale flashing light as it is stalling. If the secondary wire shows no wear damage, put a hair dryer hot blast on the coil for 5 minutes then try to start the engine for your answer. Also use another good grounded to metal sparkplug to immediately test for spark after the engine stalls. Finally, check the coil air gap and mount bolts for tightness.

I certainly hope it is NOT this:
Power Unit: UR EF3000iSEB  7WL-8A2P0-10-00 99999-04252-00  $827.61 (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

I hope its just a bad $113 ignition coil. If it's a leaking worn secondary wire, stretching it straight and wrapping it in electrical tape and then put inside a plastic hose (remove the sparkplug cap) to renew the insulation Until/IF the the coil is replaced.

Talent, On Loan, From God  --Rush Limbaugh--



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Re: EF3000iseb runs but quits after 10 seconds

Rotac
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Well after trying the suggested ideas I decided to take it further apart and when I was removing the muffler I noticed a second spark arrester in the shape of a cone that went down into the muffler approximately 4".  

I broke it loose, removed it and it was fully plugged with carbon.   With this removed I re-attached the muffler with the two mounting bolts and set the tank back on and connected the hose.  I put a splash of gas in and turned the start key.   It fired up and ran perfectly.

So it appears that the plugged muffler was not letting the engine operate properly.  I checked and adjusted the valves and carb and leaned it out slightly as it must have been running too rich.  
I added more gas and let it run for a half hour and confirmed that everything appears to be operating properly.

Originally when trouble shooting the machine I had removed the bent tail pipe on the muffler with the small circular spark arrester in it.  It was dirty but not plugged.  I didn't realize that there was a second longer cone shaped spark arrester down inside the muffler.

So thanks to everyone for their suggestions.   She's good now for another 10 - 15 years.