EF3000iSE available for parts or repair [SOLVED fuel flow]
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This generator is about 3 years old, purchased to provide clean backup generator power to my house.
It has a problem which appears to be thermal. I can get consistent 1 hour runtime from cold start before failure. If I restart, it goes maybe 10 minutes. To eliminate other causes, I have disconnected oil level alarm, removed and cleaned carburetor several times, including the tiny pilot jet. Installed an additional fuel filter in case there's bad gas. Filtered gas through Mr. Funnel or whatever that was called. Added the equivalent of Seafoam. And used Stabil in stored gas.
Total hours runtime from the beginning about 25 including periodic runs to keep it lubricated.
I'm not interested in replacing expensive sealed electronic modules in a hit-or-miss manner. And I'm not confident a local Yamaha shop can repair and give me a reasonable warranty. Clearly this generator is beyond its original warranty.
If someone has experience with a local-to-Rhode Island shop, please let me know. Otherwise make an offer. I'm going to go Honda and see if the dealer will give me a trade-in allowance.
I saw that post a while ago, although I didn't view the youtube video until today. I'll try the cool-down method to see if I get more than 1 hour.
The equipment model numbers in Tori's post are for older equipment. Mine is 7CH-24163-01, SN 7CH-2920307.
[edited to add]I started the generator and ran it with Econ mode off. After 1 hour it shut down. I opened the panel and exposed the circuit board to ambient air. Took about 10 minutes. Restarted, and it ran for 1/2 hour. Ambient air in the shade of the garage is less than 55 degrees. I happened to be there when it started to shut off. Manually opening the throttle did not affect failure, so something else caused shut down.
Birdfeedr, I always make the easy shots first. It may very well be a heat induced failure of the overspeed circuit board, but it also acts like a fuel flow or tank cap venting problem. When it stalls out, immediately shut the fuel valve OFF, then open the carb bowl drain screw and see how much fuel comes out. It should run for 3+ seconds if the float bowl was full like it is supposed to be. Finally, turn the fuel valve ON, noting if fuel runs out the still opened float bowl drain screw's line. If it does NOT, unscrew the fuel tank filler cap while watching the drain line for fuel flowing.
Birdfeedr, it also acts like a fuel flow or tank cap venting problem. When it stalls out, immediately shut the fuel valve OFF, then open the carb bowl drain screw and see how much fuel comes out. It should run for 3+ seconds if the float bowl was full like it is supposed to be. Finally, turn the fuel valve ON, noting if fuel runs out the still opened float bowl drain screw's line. If it does NOT, unscrew the fuel tank filler cap while watching the drain line for fuel flowing.
I found a local repair shop, and since I don't have a lot of free time to diagnose, took it in for repair. Will pick it up today. Apparently, the CARB compliance emission control measures resulted in negative pressure in the fuel tank building up to starve the fuel supply. There are two connections on the charcoal filter box. One goes to carburetor air intake/valve cover, the other goes to fuel tank through to vent hole at filler. Repair says there was blockage of some sort in the fuel tank connection, corrected by modifying so fuel tank connection is straight pipe as a drain similar to carb float bowl drain.
Since my state is not signatory to CARB-compliance for small engines, and I do not intend to run except as backup power, I will run with modification and a fairly clean conscience.
I am certain I would have worked it out with your advice. Thank you Rob. One of these days when I retire and have more free time....