Have a genset I bought new in 2014. Has worked fine and remains easy to start, but even after the local Yamaha dealer serviced it for Low Voltage; installing new stator and rotor, and head gasket, the machine continues to only produce 85-92 volts. Seems to work okay until it warms up, then the voltage goes.
Genset has been used with an Iota 40amp battery charger. Has functioned very steady and correct, until early August when began dropping voltage level after running a while. I have a Kill-A-Watt meter and the genset with new parts installed by the Yamaha techs when run with eco switch disabled, just won't deliver more than 925 watts at 92 volts after 30mins of runtime at 1300-1450 watt draw from the charger. Genset shows 125.2 v at 60.2 hz w/no load on initial startup.
Have an older Honda eg2500 which delivers correct volts and 1335 watts steadily when connected to the Iota charger. Battery voltage is never allowed to fall below 50% state of charge. Even when run on an 8kw genset the charger only pulls a max of 1350-1400 watts at correct voltage range.
The Yamaha has run this charger fine for over a year with no problem. Machine was at the dealer for about a month. Going right back. Asked these guys to run the machine till it got hot and test it for full capacity. Was supposed to be "fixed"...
Any ideas as to what is going on?
Machine was picked up from dealer after 2nd lengthy stay, last weekend.
Dealer invoice shows they replaced Stator, Rotor, Motor Unit, and Control Unit, for $1298 worth of parts.
Still doesn't work. Dealer's tech guy has continually bitched about Yamaha not reimbursing them for the parts or more than .9 hrs of labor. The parts were listed at my request, and as the machine leaked oil when brought in for service, was told they replaced the headgasket also.
Machine still will NOT make enough power to drive the battery charger as it did from June 2014 to Aug 2015.
Since last Sun I have changed the oil 3 times and installed new spark plug with each oil change. The oil change after 10hrs of motor run time; first to allow the Yama-Med motor cleaner to work. and then after 8-10 hr steady runtime with/without load to see if the oil and spark plug would not foul. Oil shows some creamy brown color in with black tint, and plug is oil fouled on threads, seat face and prong that makes gap for electrode. Ceramic and electrode look fouled also.
The motor smokes a great amount, even with new 10/30 synth oil change and spark plug, at startup lasting about 30-45mins. Exhaust smells very bad. Motor never smoked and exhaust never had bad smell before.
The Yamaha techs at their East Coast facility think they know how to fix the thing, last the customer rep told me. No comments from them about the pix of fouled spark plugs and voltage at 94v 1200w I sent them showing readings from my Kill-A-Watt meter. Other gensets run the charger just fine.
Dealer that has lost so much money servicing product they sold me told me to take the machine to another dealer for warranty work after I mentioned the machine smoking and fouling plugs; then hung up on me.
My warranty is good through January 2017. Yamaha now expects me to "find a dealer I trust" to try their ideas to make the voltage delivery restored to levels the machine previously ran at for first 14mos I owned it. They have not commented on the motor that likely needs a new piston and cylinder head.
Yamaha dealers evidently do not have tech expertise to load-test their repair work, and Yamaha Intl will not pay them for their time and parts on a job.
I am EXTREMELY Disappointed with every aspect of service and customer service related to this purchase.
Probably going to be the last Yamaha purchase for me. Machine had regular oil changes ever 60-70hrs of runtime, just to be sure and new plug every 3rd or 4th month. Plugs always looked dark tan or light brown, never oil-fouled. No more inverter type gensets for me!
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WOW! $1298 worth of ALL the electrical charging component parts?? For a Genny that costs less than $1000 !
Engine now smokes and burns oil? It's raining outside now so I have time for an elaborate response.
Clearly there is a replace-them-all repair approach with the inept mechanics at that dealer -and- it explains why Yamaha is not reimbursing them for the parts or more than .9 hrs of labor.
I read these 2 post carefully trying to figure out what would cause the symptoms listed and came up with one that could definitely cause the low voltage problem. The one thing they likely did not check was the 120V female outlet and harness wire connections to the genny . . . . that is showing a voltage drop "after running a while."
The outlet's internal female prongs that grip your male plug blade terminals may have weakened with heavy usage, creating a weak connection that under a continuous 1300+ Watt load will get very hot and likely sputter, disrupting and possibly even permanently damaging the finned inverter's voltage control circuitry. Any plug that plugs into the genny outlet with very light insertion resistance should be a big red flag to NOT use that plug or the genny with a heavy load until the outlet can be replaced. To postpone any future "activity" from causing the same traumatic outlet terminal damage again, I would purchase a more expensive, heavier duty, unauthorized replacement in the form of a 20 Amp outlet. If it were 15A house wiring powering that 20A outlet, THAT would be dangerous to the house wiring if a 20A load was applied, but a 2KW generator will tell you immediately that load is NOT allowed.
If you (as I have also done once in a pic posted here) plugged the Kill-A-Watt (KAW) directly into the genny outlet, its' hanging on one side weight and/or changing extension cord plugs while the Kill-A-Watt is still plugged into the genny can and will create stress on the Genny's output outlet's internal prongs over time. The best practice is to use a heavy wire gauge terminal strip and plug the KAW and other loads in there, using the terminal strips rocker switch instead of un-plugging things from the genny.
About the oil burning, it has a few well known causes in 1 cylinder air cooled engines:
--Extreme run time hours with many engine re-starts per day. It's not the restarts, but the ignition off fully fuelled seconds long coast downs that cause oil dilution.
--A perforated, crumbled or ill-positioned air filter that allows dirty air to enter the combustion chamber.
--Lack of anything close to scheduled oil changes (NOT in your case)
--A malfunctioning (worn out, bent, broken or clogged) crankcase breather disc check valve. It would allow positive rather than the normal/required negative crankcase pressures.
--Use of over dosed mixtures of fuel system cleaners that will compromise (wash away some of) the cylinder wall and valve stem boundary film oil lubrication, accelerating wear and degrading their oil sealing abilities.
Its still raining . . . .
Talent, On Loan, From God --Rush Limbaugh--
The electrical outlets, which you call female sockets, are fine. I have rotated their use to attempt to even-out the draw from each output "leg" of the stator.
If you own the Yamaha service manual, (I do), you can read the diagnosis section and see dealer seemed to be following the process. Stator and rotor could very well have been damaged; burnt due to failed control function.
The battery, at about 80% state of charge was tested with a Generac 8000XP with two 20a 120v gfci protected circuits. The charger load was 1199 watts at 119.9volts. The Yamaha would not supply that level of power, although it is well under, about 25% under, it's rated power delivery.
The machine worked fine with the charger for 14 months. It was not run continually, or even "regularly". Sometimes not used for a week or two. The idea of being able to charge our battery for 4hrs on one gallon of gasoline was the whole reason for buying the Yamaha. It worked for 14mos.
As far as dirty oil and fouled plugs go: The fuel is fresh purchased no more than several days old. I have used 1/2 oz of SeaFoam every several tank fulls. Dealer added Yama-Med, advising that takes one or two tanks of fuel for it to decarbonize the engine and exhaust. Air Filter has been kept clean and lightly oiled. Have used no more SeaFoam in past week. Still starts with a lot of smoke and exhaust smells bad.
There was NO fouling or smoke before dealer worked on the machine. The headgasket replacement seems to have stopped the oil leak, but what caused the gasket to fail? Headgaskets are very heavy material, have replaced one on a Polaris ATV some years back. What caused that failure?
If the machine is fixed, it should perform to same level it did when new and for following 14mos.
The Yamaha Service Manual is very minimalist stuff. I understand Yamaha Intl has techs that consult with dealership mechanics. They ought to give me a new machine and bring mine into their lab and see what it takes to restore it to fully-functional service. I am at the limit of my patience...
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