When I run the generator with the tempature about 30 degrees outside it will stall unless I keep the choke pulled part way out even after running for an hour, econ switch on or off. The loads are a 60 watt light 19 inch TV small fan on a wood stove. I did pull the carb off and clean and blow out ports but still did it.
You did the right thing to start in pulling off the carb for cleaning,upon reassembly did you remove the jets for cleaning and hold up to the light to ensure they were all clear through then Blow out with compressed air the entire carb body and reset float height and it should be good. If it will only stay running with the choke partially on this would lead me to believe the generator is running out of fuel.Some people take a carb of and clean it with out removing the jets,etc from the carb body. A complete dissasembly is required.
Also what is the wattage of the 3 items combined that are in use. Is it possible one is overloading the generator when it comes on, maybe the fan ? You could try unpluging one of them and recheck.
Cheers, and Merry Christmas !
I did check and blow out all the jets. there is one jet on the top of the carb that is open to dirty air what is that one for it was clean. All three loads were on all the time the fan is a small one on a wood stove. I tried it on my block heater which is 400 watts and it did it to. Is there any place that could have a vacuum leak in the head?
Good morning, Well it sure sounds like the carb is nice and clean and you have to look for other possibilities.The pilot jet you mentioned being open, is normal.
Since you say it requires choke to keep running then it must still be running out of fuel.
You can try removing the gas cap to see if this eliminates a possible blocked fuel vent in the cap.
Another possibilty is an intake leak, to check this, you would need to spray around the carb,etc when its running an see if the engine speeds up. you can use contact cleaner or a similar product to do this.
Remember to keep an open mind when looking into these things as most root causes are usually stumbled upon while going through the process of elimination.
Good Luck, and have a very Merry Christmas !
I did spray carb cleaner around the mounting gasket rpm did not change. On the float adjustment it is plastic and the needle valve has a spring loaded stop pin so I do not think it is adjustable. Disconecting the ccv line to the fuel pump it still runs for a while. One other thing the 12 volt output is 35 volts no load 12 volts with a test light and 7.7 volts with a 5.5 amp load. 110 volt side the light stays steady unless the choke is pushed in then it will roll up and down and stall but takes 20 to 30 seconds before rolling when on econ.
Hi, I have just bought a used EF1000IS and have the same problem with the choke. I have done the carb cleaning with air and removed jet etc. Have you fixed your problem, if so what did you do to correct it. Thanks Jim
stored my ef1000is for a year with fuel left in carb bowl. now runs only when i inject fuel directly into carb throat. cleaned all carb areas accessable without disassembly(except fuel bowl removal to check float) with sea foam to no avail. needle and seat operate ok as stops and starts flow when operate with finger. ran fine before storage so sure it is a varnish problem somewhere. unit only has a total of around 4 hours use.
Dont pull the carby apart, just remove it then remove the bowl. Dont remove the throttle unit, unplug it instead.
Then soak it in kero.... place the carby in the soaking disk with the float partially open and pour kero down the fuel line. This way the jet will definetly get some kero....after the first time i soaked mine it i was amazed at how much air was passing in comparison to the day before. It's evident my jet was partially blocked for a long time, this made it run a bit flaky.... now it has a beautiful smooth even run, with no hunting....eventually it will start to hunt, when it starts to hunt, i clean the bowl out... if it continues to hunt i replace the outer carby seal...
3camp, "When I run the generator with the temperature about 30 degrees outside it will stall unless I keep the choke pulled part way out even after running for an hour"
Since you say it happens with a temp about 30 degrees, it could be carburetor icing. It is especially bad at this temp when it is humid enough for fog. The way to tell is to wait 10 minutes after it stalls out, then restart it. If it runs normal for a while, icing was the cause. The ice in the carb throat melts from engine heat during that 10 minute wait, temporarily fixing the problem. If it never stalls at any other temp, icing IS the problem.
A choke enriches the air/fuel ratio, meaning that it adds extra fuel to help a cold engine start, or run under severe cold conditions. In times past, when manual chokes were on vehicles, one drove in winter with the choke partially on.
Choking is normal in Florida until the engine warms up, but one doesn’t realize it due to the computer controls used nowadays. Motor vehicles have air temperature sensors to add extra fuel (equivalent to choking) during cold weather because cold air is denser than hot air.
The purpose of the choke is to add extra fuel because cold air and a cold engine does not have complete combustion, so choking adds enough fuel to get more combustion energy to operate the engine smoothly.
The EF1000iS is designed to be VERY FUEL EFFICIENT, meaning a lean mixture (very little fuel to air ratio) to begin with! Operating in sub 30° F weather with partial choke is NORMAL and neccessary because the EF1000iS does not have a computer controlled enrichment (choking) system for the conditions you are operating in.
First, the air is denser when it is cold, providing more air (leaner mixture) and the main jet can only supply the same amount of fuel - A leaner mixture than the EF1000iS is designed to operate on. Second, the cold fuel, cold air, and tiny little engine being so cold will not fire this extra lean mixture very well unless extra fuel is added, which means choking.
One could drill the main jet larger, or raise the float level and then spend a lot of money operating during normal weather; or one could manually adjust the air/fuel ratio for winter operation with the choke; and have the best of both worlds – Great operation in winter or summer:)
In my opinion, nothing is happening that is unusual for the conditions you are describing. People have lost the practice of using a manual choke during cold weather is all that is happening.
Oh. The best carburetor cleaner and winter pickling / long term storage chemical to use for any engine is Marvel Mystery Oil. It cleans fuel injectors, and will 'pickle' your engine if you want to store it for a long time. Simply clean the spark plug before re-starting and it will start every time and no frozen or stuck valves or parts inside. Use it in your vehicle gas tank once every 6 months and you will not have a problem with injectors, either diesel or gasoline.
Hope this helps save a lot of needless frustration and looking for a problem that doesn't exist.
Yes, the carb mixture is jetted on the lean side, but it is not too lean that a hot engine won't run properly in very cold weather. The owner's manual makes no suggestion to use the choke for a hot engine to run better in very cold weather. Anytime the choke is needed for a hot engine to run good, there is a defect. Simply put, there is a fixable running problem with 3camp's genny.
It has either:
2--valve clearance(s) too tight.
3--partially clogged pilot jet.
4--pilot screw set too lean or metering surfaces are gummed up.
5--fuzzy valve seats.
Any one of the first 4 anomalies is equally possible. The pilot jet meters the fuel at idle and part throttle at any RPM. It gradually fades away at about one eighth throttle where it overlaps the main jet, which gradually comes into full fuel flow with heavier throttle. The pilot jet MUST BE PROPERLY CLEANED OR THE ENGINE WILL NOT RUN LIKE IT SHOULD. Almost 100% of the erratic running problems with generators can be attributed to scummy/gummy/corroded pilot jet metering holes. The fuel metering hole in it is very tiny, making it highly vulnerable to being clogged by an aging fuel's slimy deposit. The California model, EF1000iSC has a #32.5 jet, the 49 state EF1000iS has a #40 pilot jet. That means you'll need a cleaning wire slimmer than .018" diameter to "clean" it. Any mechanical cleaning must be very gentle, so as to NOT enlarge the tiny hole in the jet's brass body. The major stumbling block is that the metering hole is so very small, it can be overlooked by someone not familiar with where it is. They instead clean out the large easily visible exterior hole, which does nothing, then their genny still does not run right. The pilot jet has to be removed to clean it. That involves turning the idle speed set screw in a recorded number of turns, to get it out of the way, then your flat blade screwdriver will have full access for pilot jet removal/replacement. You may also need to remove the pilot mixture screw for cleaning too. The plastic limiter cap's tab can be cut off with a pair of dykes (wire cutters) so it can be removed. Before you remove it, turn it in, counting the turns it takes to seat it lightly. Then you can remove it. Squeeze a couple shots of carb clean down in the pilot screw hole and wipe the pilot screw's needle point clean too.
Valve clearances that are too tight will also cause a poor running problem. The spec is .1mm for both valves at TDC compression. The carb has to be removed before the cooling shroud and valve cover can be removed, so seek professional help if you're unsure of what to do. There are plenty of opportunities to inflict expensive damage on your genny if you just "wing-it".
On my second EF1000 and have operated them both well below freezing so was glad to see cyclerob tell you if your using a choke to make it run it's not temp related, it's another problem. A choke started and then warmed up engine needs no choke to make it run after coming up to temp and "icing" isn't a problem either. I have run them for several hours/days in 10 below temps at my off grid cabin, no problems that way.
I'm currently replacing instead of trying to clean my pilot jet, could they make that hole any smaller? stumbling on eco mode and yes I use non ethanol and a stabilizer but I put hundreds of hours on it also (love it!) and while it says EF1000iS it has a 32.5 pilot jet in it which I thought would be a 40 anyone know why their different, related to California models? and are they interchangeable anyways? can you use either jet? What is the difference between the EF1000iS and the EF1000iSC anyways?
Spent money on the Honda 1000 model too, that threw a rod ! so much for Honda being bullet proof, they repaired for free only had 30 hours or so on it but I don't trust it anymore. My first EF1000iS had thousands of hours on it before it got tired. Oil and sparkplugs and clean/burn off the darn spark arrestor often and your good to go.