Does anyone have any tips? I have the service manual so I'm pretty clear what will need to be done, up to the point of replacing the oil seal. It says almost nothing about it.
Additionally, I will have the Sheave Holder and the Rotor Puller (not yet ordered).
I talked to the dealership and they mentioned that I do not have to pull apart the two engine halves; the seal is on the outside of the crankcase. See this diagram.
One person I talked to said to drill a hole in the oil seal to remove it. Presumably, the hole would be able to aid in pulling the seal out. Is there a better way to remove the old seal? I've not actually seen it yet, so it might be pretty obvious or extremely perplexing; I don't know.
The service manual says that I need to apply lithium-soap-based grease to the new oil seal lip. Is this just to aid in pushing it back into the crankcase? Is there a particular method of pushing it back into the crankcase that is most effective? Light hammer taps? Or something else? How much do I apply to the lip? Just a thin coat? Any recommendations on type/brand of grease?
Is there anything I should be watchful for in particular in any of the removals or replacing of parts?
Oh an by the way, this is due to a profuse oil leak that is coming from that area when the generator is running. It's hard to see for sure, without removing the stator coil, but I'm almost positive it's not coming from the crankcase gasket and I'm sure it's not coming from the valve cover gasket. Oil is getting spit out by the "generator fan" on that side. I've watched the generator run with all the plastic covers off (2 blue and 2 black). I don't think it could be anything else other than the oil seal on that side, especially for the volume of unseen-sourced oil coming out.
Re: EF1000ISC - Changing Oil Seal on Stator Coil Side
truthlighting, You do not mention the run time hours or year of manufacture so we can make a better diagnosis so the new seal or other crank seal will not be damaged. The fact that oil is leaking profusely tells me that the crankcase breather check valve disc, in the valve cover, is worn out, damaged/cracked or gummed up so badly it does not pass the normal minute blow-by gases. That would pressurize the crankcase enough to "blow-out" seals. Also, it could be there is excessive blow-by from a worn piston/rings/cylinder.
To remove the seal, first use the puller and holder to remove the flywheel. Next, make 2 opposing holes at 3 and 9 O'clock positions with a sheet metal screw used for no more than an eighth inch of penetration, force turned into the mid-outer portion of the seal's face surface rubber, the screw serving as a thread tap. The seal can then be carefully pulled out with 2 other sheet metal screws (with the pointed ends ground off) using needle nose plier(s) under the screw heads clamped on the screw shafts and pivoting on a fulcrum point object to rock the seal out of the crankcase half. A heat gun aimed at the Aluminum crankcase circling the seal will soften the rubber and make it easier to slide the seal out of place.
When using the screws, you must be very careful to NOT screw them too far into the rubber seal wall and jam the point into the ball bearing steel cage on the other side!! That is why you use the pointed screw to make a 70 percent of full diameter hole equal to the 2 ground down screw tip's smallest diameters, so the collision with the bearing cage is "much less likely".
Installing the new seal:
--Use a very thin engine oil film on the 2 mating surfaces.
--Use a section of PVC drain pipe matching the seal's OD to carefully tap the seal into place with gentile, perfectly axial mallet taps. Be sure the PVC pipe's cut end is flat and perpendicular.
I hope you can envision the carefully written words above to guide you in the seal's removal/installation.